MOUNT PULAG-AN OVERDUE BIRTHDAY GIFT TO MYSELF

The BIR-NOB Mt. Pulag questors: Alvin of LTAD, Kuya Bryan of RLTAD 1, Rajah Rahakut (the blogger) and Kuya Ruben (our team leader) both of LTCED.

JANUARY 30, 2014, THURSDAY

Last day of work today since it has been declared that tomorrow’s Chinese New Year will be a holiday. Lunch time, Kuya Ben, Bryan, and I went to Centris to buy our provisions for our Mt. Pulag adventure. Exactly 5:00 pm we were on our way to Victory Liner.

My mountaineering bag courtesy of Ate Monique from LTRAD 1 where Kuya Bryan is also assigned. My sleeping bag and trekking pants were courtesy of Kuya Tony Perez. Inside my bag were the cooking utensils, tent poles, and earth mat of Kuya Ben. I wore the Randolf black jacket given to me by my brother Francis and my winter jacket from Germany. I also have my “ninja” face cloth, crocheted gloves, two scarves (Arabian and winter), head flashlight, hand flashlight, and digicam of course! Also medicines: medicol, neozep, mefenamic acid, betadine, alcohol, cotton, and band-aid. In another pouch are my keys, gadgets, etc. At the Victory terminal, Alvin, the OJT from LTAD, went to the wrong terminal in East Ave. Good thing we still made it to our destined 6:00 pm Baguio –bound bus. The first stop over in Tarlac is a new Victory terminal. I ate menudo and rice there. The second in Pozorrubio, Pangasinan is the old one. I ate Mister Donut and Pangasinan self-produced milk. We reached Baguio 10:00 pm. Mam Gina, the contact of Kuya Ben in Baguio City told us to look for Country Road

which we mistook for a real road only to learn later it is the name of the jeepney that will take us to the jump off trail going to Mt. Pulag.

JANUARY 31, 2014, FRIDAY

Mam Gina told us that Country Road will fetch us 3:00 am today. So Kuya Reuben slept in the terminal of Victory Liner

while Kuya Bry, Alvin and Me went loitering and loafing around. I was looking for plants to be taken pictures of around. The flowers at the corner garden of 7-11 first captured my attention: what seems to be Philippine or Formosan Lilies and Daffodils

. Victory Liner Terminal itself was full of potted annuals in bloom: chrysanthemums, marigolds, celosias, among others. These annuals are temperate and won’t do well in Manila. Then there is an adjacent one story building with so many plants mostly geraniums which I mistook for Begonias hahaha!

I also took pictures of the Baguio Road Map. As I was looking for some more plants, I chanced upon Country Road in front of 7-11! That was around 1:45 or 2:00 a.m.

I called my team mates and went to 7-11. Kuya Bry treated us strawberry taho which was Php 30.00 each!

Then we fetched our “jeep mates” headed by their team leader Roland. His team was composed of students from UERM. Kuya Ben is every bit a real team leader. He doesn’t let his team down ever and leads in important decision-making and negotiations. There were 8 in the UERM team and 4 in our BIR team. The jeepney rent was to be divided among us. It was a long and winding journey through majestic mountainous scenery and the Ambuklao Dam beneath the towering mountains in a pit-like place surrounded by the mountains is like a very large lake. At times the travel gets scary because of the blind curves but our Ivadoy driver who looks like Carlo J. Caparas complete with the cap sans the moustache is an accomplished driver! We reached the Akiki Jump Off Trail around 6 or 7 am.

The first hurdle to Mount Pulag is going up the school that serves as the gateway to the Akiki Trail. It was steep, more vertical, and completely took me by surprise! The local DENR Igorot officers briefed us: No making of noises, Don’t buy products made of cloud rat hide, No urinating and defecating anywhere, No picking of plants and animals, and No liquors allowed. I started using the stainless walking stick of Kuya Ben going up and yet the almost perfect vertical inclination immediately caused my legs to sore unlike anything before! My team were cheering me up and Kuya Ben was telling me to just make baby steps instead of leaping steps, yet the pain was truly excruciating beyond my imagination and good thing I have mentally prepared myself for several years for this Mt. Pulag climb for if not, I will be a goner! I pushed myself forward albeit in deep pain. The vertical climb was making me pant so much. Often I must sit and rest. But what I hated most were the downhill trek because I have a phobia of it! Coupled with rubber shoes that weren’t fit for trekking or mountaineering and the more fear you’ll have going down than going up! It became steeper downhill when we were fast approaching the Eddet River. 

Supposedly, this is where we’ll be having our first camp but since we wanted to avail for a cheaper share in the jeepney fare, we followed the UERM itinerary of assaulting Mt. Pulag’s peak overnight and made me more stressed. Alvin and Kuya Bry were so fit like mountain goats that they left me and Kuya Ben behind but within their eyesight. As we make our way to Marlboro Country (so-called because it’s all Pine trees that lord in this part), a doctor and nurse couple were watching me closely should I develop any other related serious injuries or whatsoever. They decided to let their team mates go ahead. It was also the first time assault of “doctora”.  My team made me wear off my jackets, scarves, and gloves since I almost can’t carry myself anymore up. And true enough it made the going lighter. Though the sun was shining brightly, the humidity and heat of the lowlands is unknown here and the cool breeze will even prevent sweating and make the traverse more pleasant. Kuya Ben was starting to get stressed too as we traversed Marlboro Country and he will stop walking if I’m within his eyesight. 

Kuya Bryan at my back, is a big help to me and Kuya Ruben whenever exhaustion takes the better part of us.

The trudged path was becoming narrower and slippier because of the dried pine needles that I have to clear them first. We saw here Sapinit,

Sapinit (Rubus moluccanus) is one species of wild strawberries that you'll
encounter as you trudge Mount Pulag, it's edible but armed with thorns,
Beware! 'It's found in Northern Luzon to Mindanao and Palawan,
It's also found from India through Malaya to Australia and Fiji' (Spore and Seed
Bearing Plants of Mount Pulag, Benguet, Philippines) 

the endemic wild strawberry, lots and lots of native reddish medinillas-the small plants don’t have flowers. They grow into trees and then produce small pink and white blooms. There was also some orchid species of unknown genera to me. Yet still the pine trees are the lords of this part. There are burnt pine trees which is caused by their highly volatile oils. What I noticed is that the pine trees here are not fragrant unlike those in Baguio City. When I asked Sir Danny Tiu, he told me it’s because the fragrances couldn’t be released in this high altitude enough. There were times the mountains, the pine trees, and the surroundings seem to me as if a living Chinese painting. Pine cones, rare and expensive in the lowlands are abundant here littering the ground and up in the trees. Picking even a dried leaf to be brought home can land anyone in jail!

Alvin among the Benguet pine trees (Pinus kesiya)

Mountaineers are called Sir and Mam no matter how old or young they are. Greet every one you pass by albeit you are not acquainted to them. BTW, beyond the Eddet River is where the real trek to Mount Pulag Begins. This river has freezer-cold waters and native sunflower-like plants are found here which according to Sir Danny Tiu is of the genus Tithonia. Getting to Eddet includes an adventurous iron rod bridge crossing that is the only way to cross the river and continue trekking.

Every mountaineer I met in Marlboro Country were cheering me up saying it’s just 40 minutes away to the mossy forest and others say it’s just 1 kilometre away. No one is antagonistic, no one will try to discourage you, only smiles and optimistic people are to be seen of mountaineers. As I reach quarter to the end of Marlboro Country, the excruciating pain of my legs have become tolerable and I kept shouting and saying praises and gratitude to Our Dearest Lord Jesus Christ and the prayer that He save, protect, guide, and give me strength.

The pinewood walking stick given by an Igorot guide/porter was better than the stainless walking stick I swear! The mossy forest then gave way. I and Kuya Ben were here 3:00 pm.

The Marlboro Country area was the steepest part of the Akiki aka Killer Trail! The mossy forest was mostly gradual uplands

and everywhere you look there are thick mosses draping the trees that you’ll see and orchids are omnipresent here top, down, left, and right! However I learnt that January and February are not their flowering time. In here, Kuya Ben and I made more frequent sitting and resting since he is already exhausted. I thought the Mossy Forest is just a small part of Mount Pulag but it turned out to be the largest part and we were just able to leave it for the grasslands 7:00 pm! Good thing “doctora” and her bf were still tagging along us and they got the pulse rate of Kuya Ben. Because of the difficulty, he said that after 40 climbs or so he is thinking of retiring from climbing mountains and if not that, asking me what are we doing in the mountain facing a lot of difficulties while it’s more enjoyable to watch cd’s in the house hahaha!

The mossy forest is not gloomy and sad but is the happiest part of Mount Pulag since most plants and animals dwell here.

The grasslands is the next thing short of the peak. The wind here is very noisy and resembles the sound of coming rains in the lowlands. The temperature we gauged was already around 0°C or even -2°C since my hands are already beginning to feel the cold. BTW, you’ll know you’re already leaving the mossy forest when you see a water pipe that is the last water source until you reach the peak. There are also now more rhododendron trees than the low, orchid-clad gnarled, mossy trees. There was only one Hoya species

The only Hoya species I saw in the entirety of Mount Pulag!

I saw in the entire mountain and that is in the Mossy Forest and only one blooming orchid Eria philippinensis

Eria philippinensis is a cold-loving highland orchid species that is the only flowering orchid we saw in all of Mount Pulag. It is only found in The Philippines-one of the nation's pride and joy!

that lords it over that part of Mount Pulag. There are lots and lots of it until you leave the Mossy Forest area! Since the trail to Eddet River I have already let Manong Jerry, our Igorot porter/guide to carry my mountain bag which is 18 kilos according to Kuya Ben. I can’t carry it due to its heaviness but the seasoned climbers Kuya Bryan and Alvin told me it’s lighter than their own bags. At the Marlboro Country, there is an area called “Helipad”

The Helipad

which seems to be a break between the lower and upper Marlboro where it’s just earth and the pine trees are at bay. This is where Kuya Ben and I had lunch. The Igorots are marvelous each of the porter/guides can carry up to around 60-80 kilos of mountaineer bags and can even ran as they race to reach the high areas along with the mountaineers! Manong Jerry has only 2 children a boy and a girl when I asked him. Good thing I am wearing my winter jacket as we left the Mossy Forest. Also my head lamp being new was powerful to serve us from the end of the Mossy Forest up to the Camping Site in the Grasslands. In the Grasslands, when the wind is strong, we have to sit and dock even lie among the grasses. Here Kuya Ben was even more fatigued but my prowess was gaining momentum since I’m somewhat nocturnal and I find it more enjoyable now to trek. Mostly, the dwarf bamboo Yushania niitakayamensis

Yushania niitakayamensis or the dwarf bamboo is only
found in Mt. Pulag and Mt. Halcon in The Philippines and in Taiwan (Spore and Seed
Bearing Plants of Mount Pulag, Benguet, Philippines) .
Mt. Pulag is famous for the dwarf bamboo

predominates the Grasslands thus it is also known as the Dwarf Bamboo Forest. Unknown to me, this plant got minute thorns that sticks to clothes and when I try rubbing my pants I can feel the thorns hurting me somewhat but not that greatly.

Kuya Ben was already looking forward for someone to rescue us. There were flashes of light we can see and the nearest one to us was not that of an electric torch but there seem to be a ghost that played with us which they say is the Santelmo, a ghostly ball of fire. I used my head lamp to signal to it where we are and then it got lost. Kuya Ben said he saw it as a man with somewhat long straight hair, wearing a yellow t-shirt, and shorts. During the time we climb there in the Grasslands, I would attest no one in his right mind would be donning that outfit because of the wind and very very low temperatures, not even our Igorot porter/guides are wearing those! I am convinced it is not of this earth wanting to mislead us! Because we kept uttering and praying for help, guidance, and strength, no sooner than we reached the end of the grasslands and Manong Jerry was fast approaching us bringing Kuya Tony’s sleeping bag which Kuya Ben used as a cloak, extra flash light, and other stuff I can’t remember anymore.

Hypericum pulogense (Spore and Seed
Bearing Plants of Mount Pulag, Benguet, Philippines) grows side by side Yushania niitakayamensis in the grasslands and is still found up to the highest reaches of Mount Pulag. This one is a highland succulent and it was named in
honour of Luzon's 'mother moutain'. This plant is only found in The Philippines-another source of great pride and joy!

Before eventually reaching the Camp Site, there was again a series of downhill trek that I hated and whenever I feel about to tumble I held on to the grasses which have very very sturdy roots. Upon reaching the Camp Site, our tent was already standing. I entered and lied down at once releasing all the exhaustion, fatigue, stress, and weariness.

Alvin and Kuya Ben kept on warning me not to sleep since hypothermia might get the better of me. All throughout, I was never hungry; the energy foods (chooey choco, jelly ace, tiger biscuit, and my soda) we have were sufficient for me and water was really essential. It became a close friend during my adventures in Mount Pulag. Kuya Ben kept on stating that we were like the actors in one of his favourite movies, Lone Survivor, when we were in the Grasslands. I just ate some spicy noodles and went on to sleep. My body and spirit were already so heavy to move. Kuya Ben was telling me that I kept turning as I went to sleep beside him and shoving him to the brink of the tent.

Kuya Bry, Kuya Ben, and Alvin were noisy babbling before I left my earthly consciousness to slumber hahahahaha! The Camp Site I learnt got some hundred people including us. It was really crowded. But I was non-chalant. All I care for was a very good sleep. Everybody was already looking forward to reaching the peak tomorrow at 5:00 am to see the sunrise and the sea of clouds.

FEBRUARY 1, 2014, SATURDAY

The tempest upsetted our goal of Mount Pulag’s peak. The 2^nd typhoon to enter The Philippines this year, Basyang, didn’t spared Mount Pulag. The wind was so strong that early morning as I woke up 5:30 am. The rain was also too much and yet by 7:00 or 8:00 am, a break camp was declared. There’s no other way again but forward to the peak so that we can go down the Ambangeg Trail. When we were already at the peak, I still can’t believe it’s the peak hahaha! It was like a small hill now to me and I was thinking that the surrounding mountains were higher. The poncho I wore was good to thwart the rains and very strong winds. 

Always remember that Mount Pulag commands every respect: starting from the Grasslands you can’t walk straight on your back up to the peak. You must bend to deflect the strong winds and to watch your every step too. I didn’t noticed until I set foot in the lowlands again and saw the pictures I took, that the hurting rain drops touching my face wasn’t really rain drops but hail (ice droplets) pelleting!!! I wanted to go to Mount Pulag to see the snow and frost and I got more than what I bargained for Thank You So Much Dearest Jesus!!! Now, having rested, I regenerated my strength and I’m one on the lead rather than the looser again hehehe… 

Kuya Bryan was on my back watching me should I slip or tumble down. The way is very narrow, mud puddle now, and more of my hated and dreaded downhills. There was even a time that because of so much fear, Kuya Bry told me to just slide on my but going down since I’m wearing my plastic poncho pants. The grasses along the way helped whenever we’re losing grip. 

As we were nearing our first station in the Ambangeg Trail, I was rewarded by a very beautiful and stunning sight: a field of almost all temperate plants and shrubs of Mount Pulag in one area all together as if man has planted them there to make a garden and a respite for the weary souls passing by. Rhododendrons-shrubs, bushes, and trees lord over this area spit.

Rhododendron subsessile locally known as Ayusip (Spore and Seed
Bearing Plants of Mount Pulag, Benguet, Philippines) will welcome you at the Akiki Trail part of the mossy forest and
will bid you farewell at the Ambangeg Trail just like what we experienced. This species is only found in The Philippines-a reason to thank God everyday for our richly endowed natural treasures!

I also saw the shy and rare Anemone plants. They’re small but captivating which resemble tiny Lotus flowers. BTW, the Ambangeg Trail is slowly being cobbled and stones gathered around were placed as a trail to relieve mountaineers of sore feet or any other mishaps but it is not yet complete yet a welcome respite. From the small station, we continued to the muddy path again, the Mossy Forest welcomed us. This time I can’t take any pictures since we started our Ambangeg Trail trek since my digicam might gather moisture and render it useless. It’s such a lamentable thing not being able to capture the most beautiful gathering of plants I’ve seen in Mount Pulag. In the Mossy Forest we walked on felled Fern Tree Trunks

since I presume there weren’t any suitable stones to pave the trail. At the end of the trail is a cemented road-long and winding, here you’ll see development already encroaching.

The muddy path has been laden with dead fern tree trunks in the Ambangeg Trail.

Vegetable farms dotting the area with giant radishes, cabbages, lettuces, and romaine being the dominant crops. At the end of this cemented road is the Ambangeg Jump Off point. It’s still raining heavily here and the cold got the better of us: we were already shivering especially Alvin. I don’t have any more the spirit to go on taking pictures due to exhaustion and fatigue already taking over my mortal being. Yet now my team mates became appreciative of the flowers and plants planted in that “town”. I saw there a Vaccinium myrtoides heavy with flowers together with a white rhododendron. The Vaccinium plant is the last thing I took picture of.

You won't see horses galloping in Mount Pulag's Marlboro Country but rather cows that are too shy
to be approached by mountaineers.

Then I also saw Echeverias called Rose Cactus by the highland people (from Baguio to Mount Pulag) happily growing in pots in the open air. I’m too sleepy even here and shivering, I went to the fire place-cum-kitchen in the house of one of our porter/guides to get myself warm. They’re using pine wood for their hearth. It isn’t illegal since pine trees self-combust and they only get enough for their own uses. The smell of burning pine wood is akin to palo china (Paulownia elongata and P. tomentosa) but more fragrant. They place a flat iron board on top of the fire and place here their casseroles, frying pans, etc. and cook them all at once-a very bright idea that I can do at home only that I have to put the iron board on top of the gas stove hehehe… Their hotcakes are 2-3 times bigger than those in Manila and they’re selling it for only Php 10.00 each! I bought two-one for Kuya Reuben and one for me. Mine was already half when some ladies from UERM asked to taste it so I gave the half to them. I never felt the hunger but just over fatigue and exhaustion.

I do look like tarsier by my facial expression here
because I really hate the downhill trek! Here we are
about to descend to the Eddet River.

When we were on our way, I feel like releasing whatever dirt my kidneys, pancreas, and other excretory body parts wanted to throw away but I can’t since we were on a moving vehicle. I’m trying my best to prevent it. Then came another problem: I wanted to puke but I can’t and my mind taking full control of my body was able to suppress it. Kuya Ben saw I was already in bad shape so when we reached Country Road canteen in Bokod around 6 or 7pm, I fixed myself and unload all burdens my body had. Wet wipes is a very very essential thing in this highland trips I swear! Country Road is also the canteen where we had our last meal before going to the Akiki Trail. From Baguio up to the highlands, they eat and serve blue rice which doesn’t have any different taste from the white rice of the lowlands; only the colour is exotic. I bought here a Mount Pulag tag before going up that “Mother Mountain” of Luzon and now returning from a successful climb, I bought a red t-shirt with the print, “I Survived Mount Pulag-Akiki Trail”. I wore it proudly at once! 

After refreshing ourselves, we continued our journey going down to Baguio City. We reached Victory Liner Terminal around 10:00 or 11:00 pm. I wanted something hot for my tummy but lugaw is almost unknown in this place. What they have instead is bulalo or sinanglaw-the deliciously sour Baguio version of the somewhat bitter papaitan. Kuya Ben was able to buy tickets for the 12:30 am Cubao-bound bus. We ate papaitan again and went to Session Road because Kuya Bryan wanted to buy a sweater/jacket since his was wet from the typhoon at Mount Pulag. Half of Session Road was closed that night

There was already hailstorm during this day and ice droplets forming.

and gave way to the ukay-ukay called wagwagan in Ilocano. It was a surprise that even foreigners, majority being Koreans, were also buying from the wagwagan hahahahaha! When we returned to Victory Terminal, it wasn’t yet 12:30am even though we got a little lost going back from Session Road. Yet our bus was already there. I slept all the way going down to Manila and Kuya Ben told me he was so amazed that I never budged even when we made a lot of stop overs and remained sleeping in the same position until we reached Cubao. He thought I was already dead because I wasn’t moving bwahahahahahaha!!!

For Kuya Ben and other seasoned mountaineers, climbing up Mt. Pulag not by the Akiki “Killer” Trail is not that much respectable and honourable. PS: Good thing Kuya Ben got a soft copy of the certificate being issued by the DENR to successful climbers of Mt. Pulag and I have this printed and now, the PASU (The Protected Areas Superintendent) made those certificates official as she affixed her signature to it! My dream for 11 years and a half, my 2014 birthday wish, first peak, my first summit, my first major mountain climb, my first official mountaineering certificate all in a single blow-Mount Pulag, I didn’t conquered you, rather, I befriended you!

FEBRUARY 8, 2014, SATURDAY

I have learnt that my body quickly adapts to the highland climate of coldness and thin air and when I went back here to the lowlands I find it hard to breath and whenever I eat I must drink frequently to loosen the rush of air on my lungs. My ears are also still having winds inside it. My new FB profile picture of going up Mount Pulag garnered a lot of likes-the most numerous of all my FB pictures!

I never expected that most of my FB friends to be mountain climbing aficionados, majority of them asking me how was it to climb Luzon’s highest and what are the necessary things that they should bring going there. Some of them even have already scaled other mountains and now wants to try going up Mount Pulag too after they saw pictures of my team successfully reaching its summit. True enough, clmbing Luzon’s highest mountain is a life-changing experience bringing you closer to the Master Creator, Lord of all natural wonders.